I came up with this sauce in New Orleans 15-20 years ago. I wanted to capture the best aspects of a classic beurre blanc, but move toward a lighter, and more acidic style that featured puréed vegetables. I’d go through stages of obsession with cooking.
Working on sections of the craft brick by brick. From butchering to braises, knifework, prep, pastas, and of course, my love, sauté. I was very into making stocks, and sauces. Capturing the purity of whatever I was working with. Fernand Point, author of “Ma Gastronamie”, founder of the famed Lyon restaurant “La Pyramide,” and arguably the greatest chef of our time, said, “In the orchestra of the kitchen, the saucier is the soloist.” That line moved me. Still does. As a teenage cook, I used to go home at night, after my day at school, and my night at work, consume illegals, and study it the way I studied Exile On Main Street or Rocket To Russia. I was the front man in bands, and being the front man in the kitchen- the soloist- was my goal.
turnips & tops, tomato brown-butter vinaigrette
I read that book front to back many times, made and memorized every sauce in it.
Years later, I don’t think asking for Point’s approval was on the tip of my tongue, but I can happily say, I think he’d be very happy with it.
The best part about it, is none of the back story, or my particular painstaking process is necessary when eating it. All that is required is getting in there!
Written by Chef Paul Gerard.
Chef Paul Gerard went from hidden gems in The French Quarter to popular underground Brooklyn joints and then international-cool corporate houses. Chef Paul opened his first restaurant in ‘13, and he hasn’t stopped since.